Keep Your Eyes on the Tides!

   When I first arrived in Bali, a local person told me 'Oh, full moon - big waves today'.  I thought this sounded like a bit of an old wives' tale, especially coming from someone who did not surf - how wrong I was!  Bali, with its position so close to the equator, has a very different tide pattern to anywhere I have visited before.

   At first glance, the biggest tide of the month being around 2.4m did not register with me, especially as, coming from Wales where we have 12m high tides quite regularly,  this seemed like nothing.  Again, I was
very wrong!  The biggest tide of the month, which coincides with the the full moon (as I'm sure most of you already know), always seems to pull in a big swell from somewhere.

Suggested soundtrack to this article!!

Check out the Full Moon swell for the end of February / start of March - quite a bit above the seasonal average!

  Still sounds like garbage? Check the windguru archive to see for yourself.  Also, click here for a link to Bali tide tables, that way you can check when the full moon was, and how the swell was. You should see a definite pattern with the swell arriving on the day or day after the full moon.  It seems to be a well-known phenomenon here in Bali and well worth knowing the tides!! Remember, every full moon means a massive tide and usually an equally massive swell!!

This is not to say that this is the only big swell that will arrive every month; far from it.  It is just something to bear in mind and usually a guaranteed rise in swell which, in itself, is something to be aware of.  It seems to be an extremely reliable measure and peculiar to this part of the world.  I have no idea, however, if this is the same for other spots on a similar latitude - I'll leave you to find that one out!

Here's the current moon phase - if it's full / new - expect a good swell!

Another point is that, with this big high tide comes the equally extreme low tide.  I wouldn't recommend surfing  any of the gnarlier reef set-ups like Bingin, Padang Padang or even Uluwatu around the low tide mark on of the said big tides unless you are an expert, as it gets pretty shallow over nasty coral.

It should also not be a massive shock to find out that in Bahasa Indonesia, the words for both 'month' & 'moon' are exactly the same - 'bulan'.  When you think of, they are almost the same thing in English and just makes you realise how our calendar is finely tuned with nature, so we should be too! For which, keep your eyes on the tides!

Wet season Vs Dry season in Bali

Before I came to Bali I wondered how big a difference there would be between the wet & dry seasons.  After having seen out the entire wet season & just a little bit of the dry season, I thought I would weigh up the pros & cons of each to let you figure out which would be better for you as, depending on what you are looking for and are used to, it may differ quite a lot from person to person.  I should note that the wet season is from early November through to late April / early May and the dry season is mid-May until late October.

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First, the wet season;

Cons

• The wet season is extremely humid, combined with daily temperatures of 30C + daily, it can feel more like 35-40deg some days.  I found it very difficult to sleep without air-con in Bali.  

• Constant rain makes driving that little bit more hazardous.  It also means you will want to purchase a poncho for days out on the bike as, when it rains & you are on a bike, you get soaked to the skin in a matter of minutes!! Driving in Bali is an experience in itself, so be prepared! 

• If you come to Bali as a surfer in the wet season, looking to surf the waves of Uluwatu & the Bukit Peninsula, think again; they are strictly dry season territory.  The Bukit had good waves only a handful of times during this recent wet season, compared to on an almost daily basis in the dry season.

• Again, for surfers, although the amount of people visiting is not as high as during the dry season, do not think you will score uncrowded waves during the wet season; you will not.  I put this down to the fact that, as there is less swell in the wet season, there are fewer options and, despite smaller numbers of visiting surfers, almost everyone ends up at the same few spots that are good on a small swell.  You might seriously want to think about another destination for surf travel in the wet season as you may well end up sharing waves with half of the surf schools on the island on a small day!

• I am not sure if this is proven scientifically, but I found mosquitoes to be more of a problem during the wet season as they thrive in wet, humid conditions and yes, they are everywhere!

• For beachgoers in general and especially surfers, heavy rains in the wet season wash out all kinds of rubbish and junk from rivermouths straight into the sea.  Not good, especially when you see just how polluted most of Bali's main waterways are.  After heavy rains, stay away from rivermouths as you will be putting yourself at risk.

• The wet season is plagued by unpredictable and often onshore winds at most spots after 10.30am.  This can be frustrating as it makes most of the day a no-go for surf trips.

Wet season rains sometimes leave the beach strewn with litter & polluted water runs into the sea.

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From Dicky @ Odyssey's Surf School 

Pros

• Fewer tourists mean that it is much easier to find accommodation.  This also means that you can be a bit more relaxed about finding a good hotel or hostel to stay as there are many more vacancies.  Combined with this are the lower rates to entice travellers which means you will save a few quid!

• Even though there aren't so many people around, there is still good atmosphere on a night out on almost any night of the week and so, if you are coming  to Bali for the party scene and to hit the clubs, you will not find it difficult to have a good time.

• For surfers, the water is at its warmest from November to April and you will never get cold.  This means you can stay out for hours without a chill in just shorts.

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Now, for the dry season,

Pros

• Fresher air and more bearable temperatures make it much more pleasant for tourists. I find it pleasant sleeping with just a fan at night, very different to the sticky wet season.

• For anyone coming to Bali for surfing, the dry season is the time to come.  Consistent, powerful swells hammer the coast meaning that it is unlikely you will go a day without surfing.  It also means less 'surfaris' hunting down spots as there are so many to choose from.  Also, the world-class waves of the Bukit are combed by daily offshore trade-winds which blow almost like clockwork, something which has to be seen to be believed!

• Without a doubt, the best waves are to be had in the dry season; think Uluwatu, Padang Padang, Bingin, Balangan - the list goes on!  An average day of surf in the dry season is as good as, if not better than, a good day in the wet season.

Me @ Canggu, mid-June 2010. Enjoying the dry season!
Photo Etto Saka

Cons

• Prices in the dry season can go up a fair bit, and by this I mean flights, hotels, hostels, guided tours - the lot!  The difference is not substantial but would be more of a concern if you are travelling with a family and have to foot the bill!

• Also, July & August are peak season here in Bali so, on top of the increase in prices, you will find it more difficult to find accommodation.  It is highly advisable to book in advance as there are substantially fewer vacancies.  This means you can't be quite as relaxed about your planning and have to shop around a bit if you don't come with everything already booked, but that is not to say there is nothing out there - there is - it's just that good hotels and the like are harder to come by!

• The dry season surf can be quite a lot more crowded as the whole surfing world seems to stop by (just see the video above for an idea!)  However, the pro surfers come here in their droves for good reason - amazing waves on a daily basis!

• The water temperature drops a few degrees and you might want to bring a wetsuit top or even a shorty as mornings and evenings can have a bit of a chill to them.  Added to this is the fact that the Bukit Peninsula generally has cooler water than on the rest of Bali and, as this is where you will do most of your surfing, is something to think about.  However, you will be in boardies the whole time and it is not really anywhere that most of us would call 'cold'!

Bali Tourist Visas - Indonesia Tourist Visa (VOA) - Visa on Arrival ; Changes in the visa rules for tourist visits

Here's some useful info on charges for tourist visas and rules & regulations concerning them.

Bali Tourist Visa - Indonesia Tourist Visa (VOA) - Visa on Arrival ; Changes in the visa rules for tourist visits., expatriate,expat

The Indonesian authorities are extremely strict on these issues and don't take them lightly. If you overstay your visa, it will cost you to the tune of around $20 US per day. On top of this you still have to pay the rather annoying 'Departure Tax', which itself is around $15 and, apparently, is only payable in Indonesian Rupiah. For which reason, keep a few bills for the airport on your way home!

Medical Advice For Travellers and Surfers

  Seeing as I came off my motorbike the other day,  I thought I'd write some info on medical advice for Bali and certain products you might need. I would highly advise buying a few of the following products when you get here to clean up any cuts you get from either hitting the road or the reef!

 Rivanol - to clean cuts 

  I'd recommend buying them from a pharmacy here in Bali because they are everywhere and are dirt cheap (Kimia Farma is one chain that is open 24 hours)

Tieh Ta Yao Gin -
it has an iodine
base and works very
well for reef cuts.

    Betadine is apparently a less effective alternative to the Chinese medicine, Tieh Ta Yao Gin, pictured below right.

   These kinds of products are particularly important as a little graze can turn into a festering, infected mess if you don't clean it regularly in this heat - the bacteria loves the Bali weather! Mine got infected from driving round on my bike a few days later - all the fumes from other cars just got straight into the wound and next thing I know my foot ballooned!

  If you need to see a doctor, there are plenty of options;  if it's nothing serious, I would recommend going to a local medical centre called puskesmas - below is a Google Maps search result for all the puskesmas centres listed in Bali.  There are a couple in the Kuta area and I believe they are open 8am -8pm (or something similar).

               Map of puskesmas in Kuta / South Bali area.

View Larger Map

However, a friend of mine went to one not long back and, although he only paid the equivalent of a couple of US Dollars, they gave him antibiotics which were not strong enough and his eye infection got quite a lot worse.  For this reason, if you have something serious, it is better to go to a private clinic in Bali.  That is where the fun starts.

Here are my wounds from coming off the bike

 (I got off with a few minor cuts & bruises 

but it could have been a lot worse!!)

  Private health clinics in Bali are normally open 24 hours and you can find lots of them in Kuta.  However, their prices are quite expensive by anyone's standards - I believe the one time I looked they were around $50 US just for a medical consultation.  You could try shopping around but I doubt that anyone in a bad way health-wise would be willing to do so.  Also, doctors here, just like people selling clothes on the street, will try to cut you a deal and 'offer' you a price.  From there, you will just have to see how it goes & I'm afraid I can't offer you any more suggestions!

I've also read that there is a rabies 'epidemic' in Bali -  - but this is apparently confined to Tabanan and other places near there where most tourists aren't likely to visit - I haven't had the rabies vaccine and haven't had a problem. The thing is that you rarely walk anywhere in Bali as pavements (or sidewalks) hardly exist, motorbikes are so cheap to run and walking is generally dangerous as you are forced to walk down the crazy roads. It's only when I've been on foot at night have dogs ever bothered me here - I don't personally think it's worth paying so much for a rabies shot but that's my own, humble opinion.

  Here's some useful info below on dealing with any rabies cases;

"What to do if bitten by a dog in Bali during this current epidemic?

1. Flush the wound immediately with running water and detergent for at least 10 minutes, then apply iodine or alcohol.

2. Call the rabies team at Sanglah hospital (+62) 081-23958111 or go directly to the hospital. You may require urgent vaccination and immunoglobin depending on the category of the bite/severity of the wound.

3. Call the Bali Animal Welfare Association (BAWA) hotline (+62) 081-1389004 who will pick up the dog for observation."

Hope that helps!

The Cost of Surfboards & Surf Stuff in Kuta, Bali

   NB - Looking for a custom balsa surfboard made in Bali? Have a look here!

Contrary to what I had thought before coming out to Bali, you can buy everything you will ever need surf-wise here in Kuta; it  is stacked with surf shops BUT they are not cheap like other things in Bali - it seems that online shopping in the UK / USA is a slightly cheaper option.

For example, the Wave-finder surf guide costs $25 here, but you can get it on the internet for $10.  Another good guide (more detailed but not as compact) is 'Surfing Indonesia', which costs $20 online but if you bit here it's more like $35.

Kuta is chock full of boardbag places that make custom board-bags & board-socks for very good prices (they also do the same for stuff like guitars, bongo drums & others).  They normally cost between $15-25 depending on sizes. In short, if you buy a surfboard in Kuta, you will be able to get a cheap board-bag easily enough to take it home.

Custom wooden surfboard by Vince

Surfboards here aren't as cheap as you might think (esp. not new or epoxy ones which go for $800 US) but there is enough selection meaning that you can usually find a decent second hand one for a good deal.  Alternatively, if you have enough time, there a couple of guys shaping here who make custom boards for around $400 - Alexander Surfboards  & Bruce Hansell (can't find a link or a site but he is based just after the Pecatu Indah Resort on the way out to Ulus / Padang Padang - on the right just after the statue at the entrance of the resort). A recent addition are the hollow wooden surfboards made by Vince Surfboards - very strong, will last a very long time and come with a lifetime warranty against snaps! Very reasonably priced also - check them out!

As far as a quiver goes, if you come in the wet season you probably won't need  more than two boards - one for fun, smallish surf & one for waves up to about 5-6ft.  The dry season, on the other hand, is a whole different ball-game and I would recommend bringing boards for as big as a wave you think you will ride - your average 6'2 thruster might not get so much use if you come in peak season!!! (check this forecast to see what I mean!)

Suncream / sunscreen is not any cheaper in Kuta than elsewhere so it makes no odds if you bring it with you or not - it is about the same price as most other countries as far as I can see.  One brand I have found particularly good is Surf Yogis sunscreen - they make their own natural zinc cream and it is really good stuff - it is slightly cheaper than other brands too and will last you forever - highly recommended!

For actual surfing, if you come in the wet season, expect the water to be like a bath - anything black will probably make you too hot (as I found out the hard way).  A good pair of boardies will go a long way - don't bother buying the knock-offs from Kuta as they probably won't last your stay here & will give you a nice rash to boot!  I would recommend a white rash vest or t-shirt as it really does make a difference and yes, the water is that hot!

If you come in the dry season however, you might want a wetsuit top or shorty for early morning and sunset surfs as (especially on the Bukit where the water seems to be a bit cooler) it can be slightly chilly.  

There are more different types of wax here than anywhere I have been and some of the locally made stuff is as good as anything I have used in the past (try Gecko Grip - I think it's pretty damn good!).

In summary, I would say that you can buy absolutely anything surf-related in the Kuta area but some things (namely hardware & clothes) are not any cheaper than most other places, in fact just last night I saw a pair of Hurley 'technical' boardshorts for $118!! For a pair of shorts?! Oh well! This is the surf industry & it is a modern day powerhouse so I suppose they will charge anything they like and people will still buy it!

Hope that helps! Any questions, drop me a comment below :D

Driving a motorbike in Bali

   In addition to general things which you should know about arrival and transport before you go to Bali, I thought I'd go into a bit of detail about actually being on the road here on a motorbike (the cheapest & easiest form of transport) and a few things to remember.

   Firstly, in Indonesia, they drive on the left - remember it!! (Here's a map of countries that drive on the left in blue, those that drive on the right in red) It's fine for us Brits, Aussies & Kiwis but for people coming from North America or mainland Europe this is something to bear in mind!

A typical scene on any road in Bali!

 Once you have your bike ready to go, remember to wear a t-shirt! So many tourists drive around with their surfboard on their bike rack in just their boardshorts but they are just a magnet for corrupt policemen seeking a quick buck. It is an offence to drive without a shirt in Indonesia but it's always a sure-fire way to get stopped.

    It should go without saying but lots of tourists don't care about this one either - get a decent helmet not a stupid one with horns on! (see below) These 'hilarious' helmets will only get you the unwanted attention of the police. My advice would be to avoid them like the plague! Plus, your head won't thank you if come off your bike as they are basically thin plastic covered with fake leather - like some cheap & nasty fruit bowl!

Tourist helmets
 (or police magnets, depending on which
 way you look at it)

   As far as an international driving licence goes, I would highly recommend getting one before you come as, if the police do a random spot check (sometimes they do roadblocks 'coincidentally' in major tourist areas) and are stopping everyone, they cannot say anything to you if you have one.  If you DON'T have an international licence, you could end up paying more than the cost of getting one at home just to get the police off your case (more than once).  If you find yourself in Bali without one, you can get a fake one here in 24 hours at the cost of $20 but you need to ask around for that one once you get here.  Also, an international licence is needed if you want to get the ferry to Lombok or Java as they check your documents before getting on the ferry (again, a small payment is needed if you don't have one - get the idea?!).

    Another thing I would highly advise is keeping your bike keys on some sort of key chain or lanyard as, since the rental bikes here are so old, keys quite often fall out of the ignition while you are driving.  It has happened to a few people I know and is a pain to solve - especially if you only notice after you have stopped and turned the engine off, effectively leaving you stranded!  Put the keys on a chain and fasten it to your bike any way you can (most people loop it around the right wing-mirror) and you shouldn't have any problems.

   So you've got a bike, a helmet, a licence, a key chain fastened to your bike and are covered up - you are ready to go.  Petrol is your next concern.  A motorbike costs 10,000 - 20,000 Rupiah to fill up ($1-$2 US), which varies depending on what bike you have, at a Pertamina petrol station.  You can buy petrol on the street from lots of little places for around 5,000 Rupiah (or 50 cents) per litre (prob a third more than from petrol station).  This is slightly more expensive but also more convenient as these places are everywhere (see photo below!).

A roadside petrol 'outlet' - 
don't confuse it for alcohol,
despite it being in Absolut Vodka bottles!! 
 Taken from http://thebalisideoflife.blogspot.com/

    If you decide to go to a Pertamina petrol station, DON'T ask for a full tank - ask for the amount that you have in your hand (i.e. 5,000 or 10,000).  Why? Because if you say full and your tank is full at, let's say, 8,032 Rupiah - they will take your 10,000 off you and not give you change - Ok, big deal, 20 cents - but if this happens and you only have a 50,000 Rupiah note on you, you will be left to count your masses of (short)change whilst they also try to hurry you along & out of the petrol station to make way for the next person. This is an easy way to confuse & bewilder you into not counting your money there & then and letting the petrol pump guys make a bit of cash.

    Another of their tricks is to NOT reset the pump meter to 0 after the last person & try to tell you they have given you petrol that they haven't - check your tank before leaving and don't let them make you feel rushed!

    And finally, keep your eyes firmly fixed on the meter the whole time they are filling up as sometimes they will simply charge 10,000 Rupiah for 5,000 worth of petrol in order to pocket a bit of cash.  Make sure you check the readings and only give them money AFTER they have filled up. Part of the problem is that these poor guys are probably only earning $100/month (if that) and so they are very keen to make any extra cash in any way they can.

Would you go without a helmet in traffic like this?

PS I forgot to mention before that when you are driving, be mindful of the fact that a) very few people have brake lights that work b) very few have indicators (they usually wave their hand behind them on the side they want to turn) c) undertaking is as common, if not more so, than overtaking - people will be cutting you up all the time so be warned!!!

See this article about road safety in Bali - Foreign Easy Riders Dancing with Death in Bali - which states that on average, 3 people die each day in road accidents in Bali. It also states that that is only the amount of recorded deaths and pales in comparison to the amount of people involved in serious accidents which are not fatal. Be safe, wear your helmet!

Which airline to fly to Bali with?

This may seem like a simple question to all the non-surfers out there; 'the cheapest one of course!', I can hear you say. However, if you are considering bringing a surfboard with you to Bali to make the most of the surf here, you might have to think twice about which airline really is 'the cheapest'; extra charges for boards are a well-known nemesis of travelling surfers and so the folks at surfline.com have made up this list of airlines and their various

 surfboard carriage charges - check out the link --> Surfboard charges

I flew to Bali with Singapore Air & found it very good all-round. Added to this was the fact that my surfboard was carried free of charge and not met with the hostility some of you might have experienced in the past with other airlines.

A while back I decided to fly home and dared to see if I could survive long-haul with Air Asia - it wasn't as bad as I thought but definitely not an option for those of you planning on taking boards home with you from Bali.

If you have any extra info on airline charges on airlines offering flights to and from Bali, please feel free to add them to the comments below. Thanks!

Bali's Dry Season: 'tis the season to be jolly!

The Bali surf season has well & truly arrived.......as you can see from the forecast below (click for a larger version), the surf is non-stop and is seemingly world-class nearly every day.....even the 'small' days aren't so small!! It's what we all came here for and after a slightly dreary wet season we are now reaping the rewards for 'sticking it out'!

check out http://www.stormsurfing.com/cgi/display2.cgi?a=t6;b=bali for the full forecast!

Video: Fire Dance at Uluwatu Temple, Bali - Kecak!

When my father was visiting a few weeks back, I thought it would be a good time to check out the Uluwatu Temple Kecak (pronounced ke-chak) or Fire Dance. It's a pretty awesome show if a little expensive by Bali standards
($7 or $8 for 45 min. of fire dance action!) Watch the fabled 'White Monkey' kick fire!

                         

Here's a video that my Dad just uploaded of the said Kecak performance from Uluwatu Temple!

     

Click here to see more of my videos of Bali, Indonesia! 

Bali Know Before You Go: Arrival & transport

Hi there - have been living in Bali for the past few years and I thought I'd write about things I found very helpful knowing before coming / things I've learnt the hard way! I'll keep to short, simple points and will try to update as I go on here.

- You can get a visa on arrival no probs (max 30 days) - just make sure your passport has AT LEAST 6 months left on it AFTER your planned departure date. People I know have been screwed on that one.

- When arriving at the airport, the going rate for a taxi to Kuta is around 80,000 rupiah ($8 US). As you come out of departures, immediately to your right there is a taxi booth with all the set prices (and you can't bargain) to the various destinations. Book from there to avoid getting ripped off by an opportunistic taxi driver.

- A good rate for a rental motorbike with a helmet is around 500,000 Rupiah/month (about $50 US) - if they don't offer to give you a helmet, find someone who will!! To rent a motorbike all you really need is money - they don't want to see a passport or even driving licence - cold, hard cash is enough! Just be aware - driving a motorbike in Bali is definitely not for the faint of heart!

- Be careful with Honda Vario rental motorbikes - they are classic rental bikes and run well but are VERY EASY to break into - I had my stuff ripped off at the beach twice before. Just try putting your hand in the compartment under the seat when it is locked - you will see what I mean! Try to avoid leaving any valuables inside as it is an easy target.

- Rental cars are also an option but I think most people would want to see the roads here before deciding on renting a car - they are manic!! You can get a Suzuki Jimny (old one) for about $8/day but more likely $10, a Toyota Avanza for around $15/day. Shop around in Kuta and find out! Insurance is rarely offered and if it is, don't expect to be of much use to you - remember, you are in Indonesia!

(Here's what the US government say about the roads in Indonesia)

- You can hire a driver for around 300,000 Rupiah ($30 US) per day - they will normally wait for you and can be a good idea at the start of your trip while you deal with jetlag, heat, culture shock and generally getting used to the chaos that is an average road in Bali.

- Most bank cards work in ATMs over here without problems but make sure to tell your bank before coming how long you will be here. I have not had to do this when leaving the UK to go to other places in Europe but in Asia the ATMs need to be forewarned of your presence!!

100,000 Rupiah note

10,000 Rupiah note

- Be careful with 100,000 Rupiah notes (see image to the right) and 10,000 Rupiah notes (see image to the left)- they look very similar and have been known to confuse the unsuspecting tourist before!! 100,000 is red while 10,000 is light purple - try to get some cash before you come so you know what to expect!!

Life in Bali

I decided to come to Bali as, being surfer, it seemed like an ideal location; perfect waves, sunny year-round, warm water and beautiful beaches and scenery.

I plan to write a little bit about my experiences so far for anyone my age considering moving over here or simply coming to Bali for a holiday.

Thanks for reading,
Steve